Many people would like to revive and give a fresh new look to their floor without actually sanding the floor. This is ideal for floors that are not significantly damaged. This means there are no deep scratches or dents, things that can only be removed by taking off a millimetre or 2 from the surface of the wood.
You may otherwise be on a budget and just want to spruce up your floor. If either of these are true then read on!
1. Clean your floor. You need to either use a pH neutral floor cleaner or just warm water! Personally I would opt for the warm water and get on my hands and knees and scrub. Be sure to not drench the floor, its important that you only use a damp mop or rag so as to not cause any water damage.
2. Identify whether your floor has been finished with an oil or a lacquer based product. It can be difficult to distinguish between an oiled floor or a lacquered floor for the non professional. Ideally you would know from when the floor was fitted. Here are some differences that can help you tell the difference. Oiled or Hardwax Oiled floors tend to wear faster on the surface. They also tend to be slightly more of an orange color and slightly darker. Oiled floors also get stained very eaily, if you spill a drink on it, it usually leaves a mark.
Lacquered floors tend to be lighter in terms of color. The surface doesn’t wear quite so quickly and easily. The surface is usually shinier. More here.
If the floor you have has an oil based finish, I recommend using a ‘Hardwax Oil.’
If your floor is lacquer based, I recommend using a Polyurethane lacquer (not acrylic or part acrylic).
To find out what lacquers and hardwax oils I use (as well as recommendations for US readers) click here.
3. Lightly abrade (sand) the surface of your floor. You can either do this with a buffing machine using a 120 grit mesh (or a few 120 grit disks under the pad) or with just a 120 bit of sand paper by hand. You don’t need a buffing machine, I often use 120 paper by hand myself (when buffing before the final coat on a floor that has been stained for example).
You need to rub the floor down going with the grain of the wood(as seen in the video above). Make sure you do this methodically so as to not leave any areas unabraded. Don’t put too much pressure down and don’t do it too thoroughly. The purpose of this is to key the surface to allow the new coat to bond to the floor and prevent the new coat peeling off.
4. Vacuum the floor. Again make sure you do this slowly and methodically, going around the edge of the floor with the pipe of the hoover to ensure the floor is free of dust.
5. Lacquer or oil the floor. You can learn how to lacquer or oil a floor here. If you are lacquering you should use a medium pile roller for correct coverage, whereas if you are oiling I recommend using a short pile roller.
That’s it! Be sure to check the instructions on the product for drying times before walking on the floor or replacing furniture.
This is a great, cheap and easy solution for people that want to refinish their floors without sanding. It returns that new appearance to the floor.
If you have done this please let me know how you got on, or if you have any questions, please leave them in the comments section below.
Telling the difference between lacquer and oil.
I get countless emails and comments on my youtube videos from people wanting to know the difference between a floor that has been oiled and a floor that has been lacquered.
Firstly I would like to clear up on definitions. Americans can call alcohol or other acid/solvent based products ‘oil based’, whereas in the UK we call it solvent based.
When I say oil I mean hardwax oil which contains no polyurethane or acrylic. Examples are Osmo Hardwax Oil, Treatex Hardwax Oil and Blanchon Hardwax Oil. Many wood floors are finished with hardwax oil.
So lets say you want to refinish your floor using the method outlines in How To Refinish a Wood Floor Without Sanding. Ideally you really want to identify whether or not the floor has been finished with a wax/oil based product or a polyurethane/acrylic based product.
If the floor is anything other than pine, beech, maple, oak or any other light wood my colour descriptions aren’t going to mean much.
But generally oiled floors tend to go a lot darker and orangey. Even when they are first finished they are darker and more orange than floors that are lacquered.
Oil based finishes tend to matt down a lot more in high traffic areas whereas lacquered floors just have individual scratches. So in a doorway for example, on an oiled floor, there appears to be no ‘sheen’ or reflective surface at all, its all matted down from wear and tear.
And last of all, oiled floors tend to feel a little more rubbery or waxy. This is subtle. This distinction, along with the other descriptions are pretty subjective and may mean nothing without seeing lots of different floors. I’m just doing the best I can to answer a common question.
If for any reason you just cannot identify what is on your floor, it is possible to go ahead with polyurethane, its just not idea. I have seen oiled floors that have been lacquered and generally its not too much of a problem. Just make sure you key it thoroughly with the 120grit so you don’t get delamination.