Parquet Floor Restoration (Before and After)

Finally! I recorded this parquet floor restoration video a while ago.

I have had it professionally edited, and it’s finally up. Unfortunately, the video quality is not the best. I am going to be buying a new camera so I can have higher-quality selfie-style videos.

This floor was an iroko herringbone parquet floor, which has stunning grain and color. As you will see towards the end, it is utterly gorgeous. Iroko is also known as African teak.

You may notice that I change directions completely while sanding the floor with the big machine, which should be no shock to anyone who has read my parquet sanding guide.


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  1. Thanks! I’m buying a house in need of repair in one section, the rest is good. Debating whether to refinish the whole floor or try to match staining.

  2. 1st time DIY over parquet 5pc 1″x5″ in a square but main floor was 1/16″ veneer edge grain on 1/4″ and 2nd floor solid oak random colours required different Poly techniques to match same blonde due to end grain effects being lighter. So I added 1 coated stirring sticks work into a full tray to match perfectly. Doing half sides at a time due to furniture space required a good match. same pattern. Took lots of effort but turned out like a Pro. Lots of experiments with 5mm roller vs cloth push broom which I used eventually. 5mm roller application but due extreme fast dry time doesn’t level as well like curling style sweeping fast. 1st time I use Nanotechnology Varathane which is extremely thin and tough.

    I use the American Drum sander 80/120 worked 1st time but then on solid oak parquet with harder thick old oil strip, I started with 24 and ended with 100. Finished again with a dab of white in clear and it matched downstairs very well. Maybe it’s more of a actually dirty blonde shade with rich grain smooth finish. Gloss looked like semi-gloss with slight grain finish rather than glass finish which is also less slippery if wet. For edging the American Sander orbital edger didn’t cover the edge what the drum left behind very well and back breaking and left orbit marks, so I switched to an open end-grinder 3600 RPM 8″ 60 grit and much happier with results, but needed dust containment but easy to use but not as fast as your edger on ball wheels. My photos are on facebook .

  3. Hi Ben. I’ve recently discovered a parquet floor in my dining room which I’d love to restore so I’ve been binge watching your videos on YouTube which have been a really great help. Now most of the parquet are loose (previously fixed with tar) and some have signs of previous woodworm activity. I’m happy that it is historic but I’ve treated it again to make sure. I guess I have a couple of questions:

    1. What would you use to fix the loose blocks? I imagine they’ll all need to come up and be cleaned first. They’re on concrete which I’ve read might want some moisture first, would you agree?
    2. The parquet is quite “gappy” all over. Is it a good idea to fill everywhere? Is the filling method in your video the best for larger gaps?

    Any tips would be massively appreciated. Also, if you want to challenge yourself you’re welcome to come and tackle it 😁

    Many thanks

    1. Hi Kirsty, I wouldnt bother cleaning the blocks, just use a bitumen compatible adhesive, such as lecol 5500. Just vacuum the area the block has come out of, and the underside of the block, look at the underside of the block and make sure that you have a mirror image of the pattern on the underside of the block and in the cavity where the block came out, so that it goes back in the way it came. This helps it sit very snugly instead of unevenly. All of this is explained and more in my eBook in the section on parquet.

  4. Hi there. Just found your videos in you tube and you may be the answer to my prayers! I’m just about finished with the builders who have been renovating a 1970’s bungalow for my mum to move into and now I have a small window of time to rejuvenate the parquet flooring before the decorator comes in.
    Is the buff and coat method the way to go?
    It’s the small four finger block tiles design. Most of it has been under carpet for a number of years and I’ve tried my best to protect it from the builders….
    I’m nervous of a buffer but will give it a go, what’s the best polyurethane coating to apply afterwards please?

  5. Hi Ben
    Saw your video, excellent. You make the job look quick and easy. Do you do private jobs. If so what is your rate is it by the hour or by the day and how long will the job take?

  6. It’s funny this pops up as I just sanded parquet floors. Didn’t realize it when I started but it was installed, then finished. Never sanded. I started with a coarse orbital. After 10 minutes I got the drum. This was a four finger square pattern. In that case, would it have been correct to go at it at a 45?

    Completely unrelated, but is there a species of wood you like dealing with or is easier to deal with? Do you have to treat different species differently when it comes to sanding?

    1. Oak is one of the nicest to sand. But in terms of special considerations for finishes on certain woods, its something that only rarely comes up, I doubt its something you need to worry about. Hardwax oil and penetrating oils go on pretty much anything, theyre just not as durable as polyurethane.

      1. I’m so much interested and want to learn this skill
        How do get trained professionally?
        Can I get your phone number please

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